Missive from Malawi
In Chuen-Yen's latest email, she details her tour of a tea plantation in Malawi.
Anticipating entertainment along major thoroughfares is a favorite Malawian pastime. Rubber-neckers savor vehicular accidents, near misses and loud noises. In addition to catastrophes, passage of government officials, whose motorcades are inevitably heralded by sirens, flashing lights and highway closures, is another popular attraction.
During a recent drive through Thyolo, pullulating spectators, women clad in telltale UDF (United Development Fund) chitenges and sentinels lounging by the wayside presaged President Muluzi�s approach. Cognizant that roads are always cleared for aristocracy, we opted to linger at a tea plantation rather than joining queues in designated holding areas.
On Satemwa Estate�s dirt road, our lone car was the most contemporary, and most unsightly, object in the ken of vision. From a vantage point overlooking vast hectares of lush crops, we relished an irenic panorama of slaving workers, many encumbered with back-borne infants. Having sighted White people, children too young to labor, but able to walk, neared in hopes of a biscuit. One explained the logistics of tea harvesting � pill-roll the peripheral stems to garner bright green leaves; avoid dark inner pieces as they are bitter. Collection baskets can be filled within a few hours.
Some time into our tutorial, sirens heralding the presidential entourage became audible. A few minutes later, the flashing beacons passed. We subsequently joined Muluzi�s obligatory motorcade on the main road. All the while, hordes of locals stared steadfastly at the uneventful automobile parade.
Once home, I laid a handful of tender green leaves out to dry. Even sans hot water, they effuse warmth. Like so many important matters, my tea experience was not announced with bright lights, bells or whistles. It quietly transpired on the road less traveled.
Til next week,
C
posted by Dr. Alice at #
