Chuen-Yen Is Back!
In which Chuen-Yen describes her recent trip to Zimbabwe and the effects of market restrictions...
Every country has pros and cons. Zimbabwe has Victoria Falls, metropolises, mega-malls and movie houses. It has nightlife. Stores open on weekends. However, a petrol shortage hinders this once prodigal community from frequenting its local attractions. Furthermore, embargoes on necessities such as rice, flour, fruits, meats and vegetables mean shops are poorly stocked. Even if supplies were available, costs would be prohibitive due to the Zimbabwean dollar�s rapid depreciation; bread prices rose 40% during our first day in Harare.
Amongst restricted goods, fuel provided the most amusement during our foray into Zim. We passed an ironic Harare evening by strolling along blocks of parked cars heralding deserted gas stations. On the morning of our departure to Vic Falls, attempts to call an operative taxi company were unsuccessful. Eventually a scarce combi transported us to the town center. There we located an exorbitant hire whose driver expounded that black market fuel commands four to five times the government mandated 450 Zim dollars per liter. Thus, a full tank runs about one hundred US dollars. Furthermore, this expensive petrol is usually watered down and transported in filthy jerry cans. When the taxi puttered to a halt, our cabby nonchalantly leapt out to demonstrate the petrol�s inferiority by removing the filter, blowing out chunks of mud, then lurching the last kilometer to the airport.
Transport was less of a problem at Vic Falls. People simply drive to Botswana where they are allowed to purchase up to 200 liters of gasoline.
Fuel queues are Zimbabwe�s contemporary cultural icon. Having taken an interest in them, I attempted to photograph an exceptionally long one. However, shady �government officials� occluded my view and demanded the film, an impossibility with my digital camera. After a brief quarrel, they insisted we proceed to the nearby police station. I immediately resorted to the traditional defense of insulting President Mugabe, initially causing consternation. But as I persisted, the pseudo official and his assistant pocketed their handcuffs, chuckled and wished us a pleasant journey. A few meters away, I photographed another fuel queue without incident.
Later we peregrinated to the Zambian side of the Zambezi where truckloads of consumables are waylaid. Rather than navigate import restrictions, merchants have abandoned their cargo, which is being steadily decimated by well-nourished baboons.
Malawi may not have theatres, decent shopping centers or evening events, but at least food and transport exist for those with resources. What use is money when the goods aren�t available?
posted by Dr. Alice at #
